DSM Fish Gal

Adding to the 28g Tank

Today I picked up a small piece of slate and a new plant to help spruce up the 28-gallon tank.  A few plants were rearranged and the algae was scrubbed off the front and side panels of the tank.

And a close-up on the new calico piece of slate:

The new, yet unidentified, background plant:

This tank looks so bare.  Hopefully once the lighting situation is under control, the plants will grow a little faster than the algae.  There's a generic bulb in one of the strips that casts an unattractive yellow hue on the whole tank, so eventually I hope to replace it with a Flora-Sun bulb.

An Alternative Way to Set Up a New Planted Tank

While skimming through the threads on Aquaria Central, I came across Tom Barr's alternative method for setting up a new planted tank.  What this method involves is growing in the foreground plants (which are usually the trickiest to grow and plant) in saturated substrate, without filling the tank with water.  In 4-8 weeks, once the smaller plants have had an opportunity to grow in and become more established, the tank is filled and fish can be added. 

The process does look quite easy and if I had a new tank to work with, I'd love to give it a try. 

May 2008 Tank Updates

Earlier today, I pruned many of the plants, collecting cuttings to be given to a couple who are in the process of cycling their tank.  The tanks look so much better now!  Here's what they look like now (click on photo for larger image):

The 28g Tank (minus much of the Hornwort that had taken over)

The 10g Tank (still wooly, but not as bad as it was)

I haven't taken the time to clear out the 5g Hex tank yet, but soon some its anacharis will be looking for a new home too.  The Betta keeps getting tangled in it.

As of this past month, I have lost 3 fish in the 28g tank (2 Rainbowfish and 1 Whiptail Catfish).  What a bummer.  But the remaining fish all appear healthy so hopefully there will no more losses.  Oh, and in the 10g tank, I lost one shrimp, but after not experiencing a loss in that tank for months, we'll chalk it up to old age.  The other shrimp seem to be doing just fine.

The "Too Clean" Aquarium Syndrome

Hi folks!

I'm finally back after another lengthy hiatus.  Between classes, finding a new evening job to replace the pet store gig, and building my DSM Pets clientèle, free time has been in short supply.  Wooh.  Thank goodness that term is over so that I can look forward to starting the next one on Tuesday.   Oh boy!

So, anyway, the topic of the night is on aquarium maintenance, specifically how "cleaning overkill" can (and often does) wreak havoc on the tanks of many inexperienced freshwater hobbyists. 

What do I mean by "cleaning overkill"?  This refers to a range of actions, from scraping all algae from all interior surfaces to replacing filter cartridges on a weekly basis.  Getting your aquarium "too clean" can lead to a host of issues, namely a shortage in the beneficial bacteria that break down the ammonia and nitrite, which then drives these levels up, often resulting in fish deaths.  While working at the pet store, this was a common issue for many of the new aquarium-keepers I spoke with and you might be amazed how difficult it was to get through to some of them.  Other salespeople told them to do this or that, or they mistakenly believed the instructions on various product packaging were to be followed to a tee. 

It's easy to fall for the gimmicks and claims when you rely on the advice of salespeople, but we should keep in mind that it's their job to sell us stuff, plenty of which we probably don't even need.   Double goes for the manufacturers of aquarium supplies.  Many of those manufacturers encourage too frequent and thorough aquarium cleaning in an effort to sell more of their products (e.g. - pre-assembled filter cartridges).

For newbie fishkeepers, it's frustrating to learn that by following the directions posted, your tank isn't as healthy as it otherwise could be.  For these same people it can be difficult to come to terms with the idea that aquariums aren't supposed to be THAT clean.  Aquariums are essentially enclosed miniature ecosystems supported by an assortment of microscopic critters that break down waste products, creating a hospitable environment where fish can thrive.   The places fish come from aren't sparkling clean so why should their tanks be?  New fishkeepers would sometimes say they wanted to provide an optimal living space for their fishies, reasoning that fish would appreciate the same sanitary conditions most Americans can't get enough of (anti-bacterial soap, anyone?).  The problem is that an ultra-clean environment IS NOT optimal for fish (and I'd argue it isn't for people either, but that's another topic).

So, what can we do to improve the health of our aquariums?  Here are a few suggestions (with accompanying links for more information and ideas):

1. Do NOT replace filter cartridges, sponges, or pads very often.  By that I mean one should last for at least a month or longer.  Throw it out only when it's tattered and falling apart or so clogged that it seriously inhibits the flow of water through the filter.  If it becomes clogged with debris you can first try rinsing the cartridge in dechlorinated water (NOT tap water as the chlorine will kill off beneficial bacteria) and then stick it right back into place.  When the package says replace it every 2 weeks, know the manufacturer is buffaloing you into spending more money.  It isn't necessary and in fact does more harm than good to replace your filter cartridges or sponges too frequently.  If more filtration power is desired, add a second filter.  Here are some excellent filter maintenance and cleaning tips.


2. Allowing some (or even a lot) of algae growth is beneficial for your aquatic environment.  Besides  fish enjoying the freely-available snack, algae helps maintain proper water parameters by absorbing some of the excess nutrients and waste products (ammonium and nitrate mainly).  In my tanks, I scrape algae on the front and side walls and leave it to grow uninhibited on the ornaments, rocks, branches, and back glass panel.


3. Use unnecessary chemicals sparingly.  The chemicals necessary for your tank are: water conditioner/dechlorinator.  That's it.  And non-iodized salt.  You don't actually need much else. Water clarifiers rarely do any noticeable good.  Algae inhibitors and pH solutions tend to do more harm than good.  Keep in mind that every time a chemical is added, it increases the total amount of chemicals present, expressed in parts per million (ppm).  That's what the fish are living in and "breathing" everyday.


4. Never, ever use soap to clean out an empty tank or to clean ornaments.  No matter how well you rinse it, some residue is usually left behind.  If serious cleaning is needed, soak the items in chlorine bleach water, followed by an overnight soak in dechlorinated water before being left to dry.


5. Ornaments, fake plants, and rocks provide surface area for beneficial bacteria to colonize.  Bleach will kill these colonies, so it's best not to clean these items.  If you must, it's best kept to rare occasions.  The tank may look all neat and pretty with the ornaments scrubbed up, but it does nothing for the health of the tank.  Removing beneficial bacteria means there are less available to break down the toxic waste products, which can result in fish death.  If a couple of ornaments are kept cleaned off, I'd recommend cutting up pieces of filter foam or sponges and placing them in the filters to allow beneficial bacteria a new site to inhabit.  Just rinse it occasionally in dechlorinated water and replace when tattered.
   


6. The aesthetics new fishkeepers tend to prefer are man-made and look unnatural.  It's probably due to how aquarium supplies are marketed, but it's great to expand past that preference and learn to appreciate the way an established miniature ecosystem actually looks.  It may look overgrown and bushy, but fish dig it that way. 

On top of creating a more fish-friendly environment, these tips help keep the setup more affordable and truly low-maintenance.  I'm all about that! 

February Updates

Life is busy and bustling these days, not that I'm complaining.  Just doesn't give me as much time to blog as I'd like.  So here are this week's updates in a nutshell.

After losing Chance, Noby was left without a cagemate, so I brought home a new little guy named Burns.  He's solid black, slightly chubby, and relatively sociable.  From here on out, the mice will be on a more restricted diet, and I did furnish the cage with a new wheel in hopes that they will exercise at least occasionally.  Burns and Noby hit it off immediately and spend a good bit of time grooming one another and cuddling in their igloo.  A photo will be taken and posted once he has an opportunity to settle in a bit.

I also brought home a bamboo shrimp and a couple of tiny molly fry.  The bamboo shrimp found his way to the clump of hornwort floating on the surface in the 28g tank where he can sit directly in the current and feed on whatever comes his way.  The molly fry went into the 10g brackish tank and so far only one is active and comes to the surface to feed, but it's also the largest of the duo and is probably less afraid of the bigger fish. 

The 10g tank is doing amazingly well with all of the fish, shrimp, and plants flourishing!  The bumblebee gobies are even doing well and getting enough to eat.  I ensure this by feeding flakes on the surface to distract the larger fish and then dropping a variety of sinking foods (Aquadine, pieces of algae wafers, and shrimp pellets).  Occasionally the mollies are fed freeze-dried tubifex worms, which they make a mess with, allowing the gobies to chase the floating particles. 

The 28g tank is still not quite up to par and it looks like it may again have ich.  I could just scream...but...  eh.  C'est la vie, I suppose.  It may be time to bring in the malachite green, but that involves removing the filter media, which I'm not keen on doing.  Medications are a last resort in my tanks, but this issue just won't go away!  The corydoras are all gone (and won't be replaced) due to the increased salinity.  The rainbowfish appear quite healthy aside from the few white specks here and there.  I just don't get it.  All I can figure is that this is a result of fluctuating temperatures and another reason why this tank shouldn't have been placed so close to my sliding glass patio door.  But it's been maintaining a temperature between 78-80 degrees F for at least a week now, so...  

The plants weren't doing so well, which I attributed to the raised temperatures (back when it was kept up around 86 degrees F), and algae began to take over.  One of the fluorescent lights is now kept off with the remaining strip light kept on fewer hours (no more than 10) and 3 more black mystery snails were added.  The sunlight coming in from the patio door is likely the culprit causing the algae growth, though it's not excessive yet.  Since reducing the light exposure time, the hornwort is back to growing full-force and the red ludwigia is perking up some.

The rats are all doing better, though Jimmie continues to make odd noises and remains a bit shaky.  Keefer still isn't a fan of being handled though he will come out of the cage to run around the livingroom from time to time.  And Grizzle is just as playful and sweet as always. 

Bob is bored.  He's taken to pestering me constantly to toss his toy mouse, which he fetches better than most dogs I know AND brings it back.  The rats just don't hold his attention like they used to, though he absolutely adores watching his mice through the cage bars.  The night I brought home Burns, Bob purred and begged to be held up to look into the cage, leaning back every couple of minutes to lick my lips.  lol  He can be such a sweetheart when he wants to be.  I'm seriously considering adopting a second cat so that he'll have a playmate that is just as rough-and-tumble as he is.  He gets frustrated with the ratty boys because they squeal when he's too rough, resulting in him getting in trouble.  Poor Bob.  Maybe sometime soon I'll look into bringing home a neutered or spayed kitten so that they can tear through the apartment and keep one another company when I'm at work or school. 

(Can't help but shudder at the idea of another kitten though - that's another set of claws and teeth to destroy the furniture and my skin LOL)

Combating Algae Using Live Plants

Another useful purpose for keeping live plants: they can "out-compete" algae.  In other words, fast-growing plants can use up excess nutrients, making it more difficult for algae to become established. 

The biggest problem for most people when it comes to keeping live plants for the first time is that their current aquarium setup does not provide enough light.  Most aquarium kits include a dinky light fixture meant to simply illuminate the fish, not to actually grow anything.  One way around this issue is to place your tank in a location where it will receive indirect sunlight regularly.  If this isn't an issue, you may want to invest in a second light strip or replace your current one.

Once you have sufficient light to grow low-light plants, I would recommend starting out with Hornwort.  This plant grows very fast even in low-light conditions and is considered a nutrient sponge.  I've had great success growing this plant in all three of my tanks at various light levels.  Dosing with Flourish Excel definitely increases growth, in my experience. 

Best of all, you can find this plant almost anywhere. 

      

New plants, more ich, and other updates

The 28g now has ich.  Naturally.  I increased the temperature to 86*F just as before in the 10g, but no additional salt will be added.  Can't wait to whip this dang parasite...

The new plants ordered from aquariumplants.com arrived the other day in semi-live condition.  *sigh*  I'm doing my best to salvage what I can.  The bottle of Seachem Flourish Potassium arrived as well.

The added filter floss/pad in the 5g hex appears to have helped in lowering the nitrites.  (It came from an established tank, bringing beneficial bacteria with it.)  That tank appears to finally be cycled completely, so one red male betta was added to replace the Oranda goldfish.  So far he appears quite content despite having to share living quarters with that PIA danio.  lol

One thing I have discovered is that Hornwort grows like a weed, throwing out inches worth of shoots per week.  They say it absorbs excess nutrients and fast-growing plants are great in a new setup, so I'm clipping and replanting/reattaching to tame the jungle a bit.  In time, I may have to give some of the shoots away. 

Both hornwort and java fern have proven hardy and adaptive in low-to-moderate light tanks varying from freshwater to slightly brackish conditions, proving themselves as "newbie-worthy" in my book.     

Christmas Update

Happy Holidays, everybody! 

Sick and looped on Dayquil so I'm still awake.    Heh.  And tinkering with the tanks, naturally. 

Growing more fed up with my java/singapore moss with every passing day, I decided to tie most of it to driftwood, a small shard of shale, and the three white quartz rocks.  Wrapped it in navy blue thread (since that's all I have aside from white and gray), added a bunch of java ferns to the mix, and wha-la!  Instant make-over!  Everything looks much tidier now, and that goes for both tanks but especially the 10g.  The moss wasn't growing in very well when floated on the bottom, and it became covered with diatoms (brown algae).  They say it doesn't particularly care for Flourish Excel, but that's what I'm dosing so it will have to deal.

Oh, and I rediscovered my bumblebee catfish during the clean-up!    Nice to know he's alive and well.

Anyway, here are a few shots:

 

It's still a mess, but that's okay.  We'll see how it all grows in over time.  This has become my experimental tank.  BTW, the new mystery plant (bacopa?) had to be moved over since it was wilting in the 28g.  I also transplanted one of the micro swords just to see how it would perform provided with more intense lighting. 

The 28g just received a little tidying and is awaiting the new plants to fill it out a bit:

The lights are turned down as I like to transition the lights off at night to give the fish a time to relax.  They appear to enjoy this time of the night to frolic peacefully within their respective schools.

All of the narrow-leaf and windelov java ferns had to be removed because of decay.  They basically arrived dead so the seller is working out a compromise, though I admit it bums me out slightly.  It would have been nice to see at least one of the plants in that order survive.  They arrived crushed, cold (despite the heat pack), and flattened to my dismay and just never recovered. 

But there are new plants on the way ordered from AquariumPlants.com, which is said to be a fantastic company to deal with (according to the people on various forums).  I look forward to receiving plants that my local fish stores don't carry.    

Harlequin Rasboras added! Plants on the way!

Last night, I picked up four Harlequin Rasboras, two more kuhli loaches, and one small whiptail catfish for the 28g tank.  Yep, I'm almost at full capacity now.  Bummer.  I plan to move one of the zebra danios back to the 10g (he's a fat bully) and, if the loach will ever let me catch him, to move the last kuhli into the 28g. 

New plants are on the way as well!    This time Rotala Indica, Retrospriralis, Spiralis, Dwarf Baby Tears, Hygrophilia (corymbosa v. "Siamensis Narrow Leaf"), Water Sprite, and a Rosette "Tropica" Sword were selected, along with a bottle of Flourish Potassium to help with plant growth. 

Last night, I took the time to research fertilizing options and learn how to optimize my plant growth while remaining relatively low-tech (no Co2 added except Flourish Excel).  So it appears what we're lacking is potassium, trace minerals (micro-nutrients) and regular doses of Excel (every other day) for the most part.  Iron is present from the layer of Laterite, adding nitrogen isn't necessary in a low-light tank, phosphates levels aren't a concern, most everything else needed is provided by the fish or foods.  After perusing this forum thread, it struck me that maybe my tanks are lacking in key areas or would benefit from supplements.  The yellowish new growth on some plants and the pinholes have me concerned as well.  Some even appear to fade slightly over time.  Chuck's Planted Aquarium Pages provides a chart of common symptoms of nutrient deficiency in aquatic plants, in case you're curious as well.     

The New Mystery Plant

No clue what plant this is so I'm asking around the forums.  Once it's known, I'll be sure to post its identity here.

One bunch was placed in the 28g and one in the 10g to see how it reacted in different conditions.  With the compact fluorescent turned on, the 10g is my "high light" tank at 3.3wpg and is also more shallow, allowing for more intense lighting.  I'll post my findings later!