Yep, he's worn out his welcome by behaving very aggressively toward all of the other fish in the 28g tank, all of whom happen to be smaller than him. This fish would be more suitable among larger species. He's managed to kill two of the Rainbowfish plus the other Gold Gourami so far. 
Hopefully he can find a new home where he can live happily without being so much of a bully.
Earlier today, I pruned many of the plants, collecting cuttings to be given to a couple who are in the process of cycling their tank. The tanks look so much better now! Here's what they look like now (click on photo for larger image):
The 28g Tank (minus much of the Hornwort that had taken over)
The 10g Tank (still wooly, but not as bad as it was)
I haven't taken the time to clear out the 5g Hex tank yet, but soon some its anacharis will be looking for a new home too. The Betta keeps getting tangled in it.
As of this past month, I have lost 3 fish in the 28g tank (2 Rainbowfish and 1 Whiptail Catfish). What a bummer. But the remaining fish all appear healthy so hopefully there will no more losses. Oh, and in the 10g tank, I lost one shrimp, but after not experiencing a loss in that tank for months, we'll chalk it up to old age. The other shrimp seem to be doing just fine.
Mystery snails are only able to live in one of my tanks, while quickly dying off in the other two. So, I've gone in search of an answer to this problem and here's what looks to be the problem: a lack of calcium. Mystery snails require hard, neutral-to-alkaline water and as we've discussed in a previous thread, hard water is determined by its amount of dissolved calcium carbonate (CaCO3).
While my test kit indicates that my water is indeed very hard, an old acquaintance in a nearby neighborhood experienced the same problem with keeping snails and used vacation feeder blocks to remedy the issue. How did that work? I asked myself the same question and it turns out that these blocks add calcium to the water. Another option would be to add a small piece of cuttlebone (the stuff for birds) or crushed coral to the filter.
And so I'm off to give it a try! I'm down to one large mystery snail that seems impervious to any water conditions, but all of the small mystery snails died off. The ramshorn snails, naturally, are doing just fine. Those suckers never die. 
I'll report my findings soon!
The 28g tank is finally becoming fully-established after being set up for about 3.5 months. While it looks unkempt and no true aquascaping has taken place yet, the plants are growing in nicely and the fish are all doing well.
Most of the original stock has survived. This tank is currently stocked with the following:
Here is a photo of the unidentified cat (in case anyone has any ideas on what it may be):
Some of the plants survived, though plenty didn't make it. I've found that plants tend to do better in my 10g tank where the water is more shallow and the lighting is in the 5600k spectrum.
The 10-gallon tank is doing very well after being set up for over 8 months, though I continue to lose an oto catfish every couple of months. It's a wooly jungle in there, but the fish seem happy and the plants grow like weeds with supplements only rarely added.
In the 10g, the follow species remain:
The molly fry didn't make it unfortunately.
The experiment of using a mixture of inert gravel and eco-complete soil in the 28g tank and inert gravel with a bottom layer of laterite in the 10g tank has proven interesting. Both tanks have two light fixtures though only one is usually ran since it tends to be overkill when both are ran for too long at a time. The 10g has one 5600k lamp and a 10000k lamp that is turned on rarely. The 28g has a Current 10000k lamp with dual bulbs and a second lamp with a generic bulb that is rarely used due to excessive algae growth. Most variables, aside from tank depth and soils used, were kept very similar, so I would have assumed plants would grow just as well in either tank. But no. They grow much more vigorously and with improved color in the 10g tank. Hmmm... Perhaps good, old-fashioned laterite isn't given enough credit?
The 28g tank is powered by two HOB filters, one a Penguin 150 bio-wheel and the other a small Whisper. The 10g is powered by one Penguin 100 bio-wheel HOB filter. Both tanks usually have at least an inch or more of space between the water's surface and the top rim of the tank, allowing for greater surface agitation. The 10g also has a small air stone and air filter since it's water temperature tended to be higher during the winter months (not near the glass patio door as the other tank is). Maybe adding an air stone will benefit the 28g tank as well? I'm sure it couldn't hurt, though I doubt it will have a dramatic effect on plant growth.
Bob prefers his cat perch beside the larger aquarium where he can sit and watch the critters swim around. We consider it kitty TV. 
It would be nice to know where the idea of keeping goldfish in bowls originated from since it's become the common mindset among first-time fishkeepers, especially those selecting a pet for their children. What many don't realize is that this is a very bad idea. Why? Because goldfish produce a large amount of waste relative to their size and therefore require filtration even more so than most other tropical fish. If you want to keep a goldfish in a bowl, you'll want to select one that has an under-gravel filter or that can accommodate a sponge filter, which means choosing a very large bowl. A better option would be to select an actual aquarium, preferably no smaller than 20 gallons, if you have your heart set on keeping goldfish.
Why not just get a 10-gallon tank to start with? You could do that while the fish are small, but goldfish can get as large as 12" with many fancy varieties reaching at least 4-6". The "1 inch of fish per gallon of water" guideline doesn't break down the same for fuller-bodied fish, meaning you'll need more water for each goldfish you keep than you would with slimmer species such as danios.
Remember that when you select a fish, you want to keep in mind the size it will grow to, not just the size it is now, unless you're already planning to upgrade to a larger aquarium. The idea that fish will remain small if kept in small tanks really only means that the fish isn't provided with optimal conditions for it to thrive in. Keeping a species smaller than nature intended isn't ideal because this means that the growth of your fish is being stunted, usually a result of poor water conditions.
So, one goldfish that will likely reach 4-6" in length throughout the course of its life (12 years or more possibly) will need around 10 gallons of water per fish at a minimum. A 20-gallon tank can accommodate two fancy goldfish along with a few snails for algae control, but that's really about it.
Also, even if you do upgrade to a larger tank, you'll still need to take into consideration that goldfish are coldwater carp and thereby should not be mixed with most tropical species. Sure, you could keep a goldfish in a warm water setup (78-82F), but it will shorten the lifespan of this species since they are intended to be kept in temperatures ranging between 60-72F. In other words, if a community tank with a variety of fish appeals to you, goldfish aren't the best option.
Now, some will continue to stubbornly insist that goldfish will be fine in a bowl without aeration or filtration provided. It can be done while they are still small, but it will require more effort on your part. A 50% water change will need to be conducted at least once a week to keep the toxicity level down (i.e. - removing ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate manually since there is no filter to help with this). Then, once a month, you'll want to do a more thorough cleaning of the bowl using hot water (no soap!) and bleach if needed, which means housing the goldfish in a separate container during the cleaning and drying process. If you want to keep them alive and healthy in a bowl, this is the process you're signing up for. Personally, I'd just go with a tank with powerful filtration, but simplicity appeals to me. 
To learn more about keeping goldfish, you can check out these articles on FlippersandFins.net, Practical Fishkeeping, and Aquaria Central.
Just about everyone that comes in inquires about them, and some do report success with keeping them. However, plenty of others complain that this amphibian doesn't live for long in their tanks. For this reason, I'm interested in finding out what the problem(s) may be so that I can provide more accurate information to fellow aquarists in the future.
Here's what I've learned so far:
Scientific Name: Hymenochirus boettgeri
Temperature: 70-84F (can withstand higher temperatures if unavoidable, such as during summer months)
Max Size: 1.5 inches
Tank Size: Preferably 5-29 gallons (they may be difficult to locate and feed in larger tanks)
Feeding: ADFs are bottom-feeders with poor eye sight, so care must be taken to ensure they get enough to eat.
Frozen bloodworms are a great frog food. One method that works well for both the frog and the owner is to use either a small turkey baster-like apparatus or a pair of long tweezers. Once the frozen food has thawed in a small cup, grab a small bunch using either the tweezers or the turkey baster and dangle them in front of your frog.
Other foods to consider are very small pieces of frozen krill (too big and the pieces can be hard to digest), peas, live blackworms, and earthworm pieces.
Additional Information:
African Dwarf Frogs (ADFs) are fully aquatic and spend their entire life under water. They do not need or use land at any point in their life.
It is suggested that you keep two or more African Dwarf Frogs in your tank since they do well with others of their species. They can be kept in a community tank with peaceful fish, so long as care is taken to ensure that they're getting enough to eat since they are slow-moving creatures and may starve if forced to compete with fast swimmers.
They breathe much like a betta or other anabantoids - except they cannot take any air in directly from the water; they must breathe atmospheric air just like us. If you watch a frog for a few minutes, you will see that they come up to the surface very quickly and strike the water. This is them taking in a gulp of air (sometimes, they will let out little bubbles after they take a breath).
This species requires a heater and proper filtration. If the filter is too powerful, they may become stuck against it and unable to move. You may want to use a sponge filter or place a sponge cover over the filter's intake to prevent this from happening.
Being shy creatures, you'll want to provide hiding spaces for your frogs. Caves made from smooth, aquarium-safe rocks make ideal hiding places. Aquarium-safe pots, PVC pipe, store-bought ornaments, real or fake plants, and driftwood also work to provide frogs a safe place to hide or rest.
THEIR TANK ABSOLUTELY MUST BE COMPLETELY COVERED! Use duct tape or window screen if necessary to eliminate any and all gaps near filters, heaters, CO2 lines, etc. ADFs are notorious jumpers and will sometimes fly out of the water when striking the surface for air.
Also, African Dwarf Frogs do shed their skin, so don't be alarmed if you see clingy, white stuff on their bodies from time to time.
The sites used as references follow:
From what I'm gathering from reading sites and forums, the reason why so many of these frogs die has a lot to do with how they're fed. Target-feeding is important for this species since they may not find the foods on their own.
Click here to view a video of ADFs eating bloodworms.
Aquatic turtles are one of the most requested pets at the pet store, especially for children. Many people, however, are shocked once they realize how costly these pets can be considering they require a large tank, UVA/UVB bulbs, a basking light, a submersible heater, a basking platform, and sufficient filtration. Plus, it's a lengthy investment since with proper care, a red-eared slider (RES) can live between 20-40 years.
Let's look at their specific care requirements:
For a wealth of information on caring for your red-eared slider, you can check out RedEarSlider.com.
Here is a list of recommended items:
The 4" Law
Ever wonder why you can't find turtles smaller than 4" at local pet stores? The reason is that there are laws prohibiting the sale of viable eggs and pet turtles with shells less than 4" in length, which are directly associated to the rise of salmonella infections. These laws, introduced in 1975, have been amended several times and have been effective in reducing infections and are still in effect. Despite recent claims and articles, salmonella can still be carried and transmitted by turtles. Although it is easy to avoid transmission, it is still a potential health hazard. A major source of transmission is children placing young RES in their mouths and contracting the bacteria.
It is not illegal to own a red-eared slider (RES) under 4" but they are not commercially available under that size. Therefore, legitimate businesses (e.g., Petco, PetSmart) are restricted but private hobbyists are not.
Salmonella Risk
Salmonella is potentially dangerous and can be severe for the elderly and very young. To reduce your risk of contracting salmonella, you should rinse your hands before handling a RES and then wash again with soap after contact. It is common for turtles and other reptiles to carry this bacteria, which is a good reason for parents to remain in charge of cleaning the habitat and supervise their children while handling the turtle. If desired, a vet can test for salmonella in your turtle. For more information on this matter, check out this Salmonella Educational Handout.
While turtles can carry salmonella and transmit it, they do not often get sick from it themselves.
Life is busy and bustling these days, not that I'm complaining. Just doesn't give me as much time to blog as I'd like. So here are this week's updates in a nutshell.
After losing Chance, Noby was left without a cagemate, so I brought home a new little guy named Burns. He's solid black, slightly chubby, and relatively sociable. From here on out, the mice will be on a more restricted diet, and I did furnish the cage with a new wheel in hopes that they will exercise at least occasionally. Burns and Noby hit it off immediately and spend a good bit of time grooming one another and cuddling in their igloo. A photo will be taken and posted once he has an opportunity to settle in a bit.
I also brought home a bamboo shrimp and a couple of tiny molly fry. The bamboo shrimp found his way to the clump of hornwort floating on the surface in the 28g tank where he can sit directly in the current and feed on whatever comes his way. The molly fry went into the 10g brackish tank and so far only one is active and comes to the surface to feed, but it's also the largest of the duo and is probably less afraid of the bigger fish.
The 10g tank is doing amazingly well with all of the fish, shrimp, and plants flourishing! The bumblebee gobies are even doing well and getting enough to eat. I ensure this by feeding flakes on the surface to distract the larger fish and then dropping a variety of sinking foods (Aquadine, pieces of algae wafers, and shrimp pellets). Occasionally the mollies are fed freeze-dried tubifex worms, which they make a mess with, allowing the gobies to chase the floating particles.
The 28g tank is still not quite up to par and it looks like it may again have ich. I could just scream...but... 
eh. C'est la vie, I suppose. It may be time to bring in the malachite green, but that involves removing the filter media, which I'm not keen on doing. Medications are a last resort in my tanks, but this issue just won't go away! The corydoras are all gone (and won't be replaced) due to the increased salinity. The rainbowfish appear quite healthy aside from the few white specks here and there. I just don't get it. All I can figure is that this is a result of fluctuating temperatures and another reason why this tank shouldn't have been placed so close to my sliding glass patio door. But it's been maintaining a temperature between 78-80 degrees F for at least a week now, so... 
The plants weren't doing so well, which I attributed to the raised temperatures (back when it was kept up around 86 degrees F), and algae began to take over. One of the fluorescent lights is now kept off with the remaining strip light kept on fewer hours (no more than 10) and 3 more black mystery snails were added. The sunlight coming in from the patio door is likely the culprit causing the algae growth, though it's not excessive yet. Since reducing the light exposure time, the hornwort is back to growing full-force and the red ludwigia is perking up some.
The rats are all doing better, though Jimmie continues to make odd noises and remains a bit shaky. Keefer still isn't a fan of being handled though he will come out of the cage to run around the livingroom from time to time. And Grizzle is just as playful and sweet as always. 
Bob is bored. He's taken to pestering me constantly to toss his toy mouse, which he fetches better than most dogs I know AND brings it back. The rats just don't hold his attention like they used to, though he absolutely adores watching his mice through the cage bars. The night I brought home Burns, Bob purred and begged to be held up to look into the cage, leaning back every couple of minutes to lick my lips. lol He can be such a sweetheart when he wants to be. I'm seriously considering adopting a second cat so that he'll have a playmate that is just as rough-and-tumble as he is. He gets frustrated with the ratty boys because they squeal when he's too rough, resulting in him getting in trouble. Poor Bob. Maybe sometime soon I'll look into bringing home a neutered or spayed kitten so that they can tear through the apartment and keep one another company when I'm at work or school.
(Can't help but shudder at the idea of another kitten though - that's another set of claws and teeth to destroy the furniture and my skin LOL)
A lot of people come into the pet store inquiring about the bamboo shrimp we sell, so I've decided it's time for me to learn more about this species.
Scientific Name: Atyopsis moluccensis
Common Names: Bamboo Shrimp, Wood Shrimp, Fan Shrimp, Asian Filter Shrimp
Temperature: Tropical species, best kept at 73°F - 84°F
Size Range: 2-4 Inches
Origin: Southeast Asia
Water Parameters: Can live under a wide range of ph and hardness conditions. pH: 6.5-7.8.
Life Span: 2-3 Years
Feeding: These guys filter floating food items from the water, so they should be provided with a current in the aquarium. If you need to supplement the foods for Bamboo Shrimp, powdered algae and foods intended for filter feeding invertebrates are suggested. They can pick up food from the ground if there is nothing to filter, although that situation should be avoided.
The best way to feed these shrimp is to grind spirulina flake or powder very fine and introduce it into the current in which the shrimp spends its time.
Breeding: Bamboo Shrimp have rarely been successfully bred in captivity. They are low order shrimp (they hatch as larva and not miniature versions of the adults), and require salt water for the larva to grow.
Behavior: A happy and healthy Bamboo Shrimp will be found in a high flow area of the aquarium filtering food out of the water. They will stay in the same position for hours. If the Bamboo Shrimp feels threatened or has just molted it will find a suitable hiding space. If a Bamboo Shrimp is observed picking at the substrate this is a sign that the shrimp is not getting enough food. This is stressful to the Bamboo Shrimp and should be avoided.
More Details: These shrimp are interesting in that they filter tiny food particles, such as microscopic microorganisms and detritus, out of the water as their main food. For that particular purpose they have specialized chelae, which have turned into sticky, fan-like filter appendages.
These shrimp should never be housed with fish that could hurt them, such as most cichlids, even if the fish is smaller than the shrimp or the same size. The Bamboo Shrimp itself is totally harmless and is not even capable of hurting the smallest fry or other smaller shrimp. Thus, it can be housed with all dwarf shrimp, regardless of size.
It is highly suggested that you place a piece of wood, rock, or similar "platform" for the Bamboo Shrimp to sit in the current. If it is difficult for this species to be in the current, it will tend to climb the filter tubes or even out of the aquarium. It will search out the source of the current if it is unable to feed. Since it does not feed on fish food you must accommodate its specific needs. If you see the shrimp sifting the bottom of the tank then that is an indicator that it is not properly feeding and action on your part is required.
If you don't have a filter return current, you may want to set one up with a small powerhead.
As with all aquatic invertebrates it is important to make sure copper does not get into the aquarium. Copper is toxic to all Dwarf Shrimp. Many medications contain elevated levels of copper, so it is recommended not to medicate an aquarium with shrimp in it.
Also, they don't need bamboo. 
We recently received a shipment of Clown Knifefish at the pet store where I work at, so it's time to learn more about them. Come to find out Aqualand Pets Plus carries this species as well.
According to AquariaCentral.com: Notopterus chitala, commonly known as the Clown Knifefish or Featherback, is a large predator from Southeast Asia. The Clown Knifefish must be kept in a very large aquarium (at least 135 Gallons!).
Max Size: 36" (i.e. - wayyy too large for the average fishkeeper!!!)
It is recommended to keep these fish alone as they are voracious predators capable of overpowering fishes of the same size and eating anything smaller. They are nocturnal, preferring low light levels, so floating plants are appreciated.
Being carnivores, Clown Knifefish must be fed chunks of meaty foods such as chopped beef heart, prawns, live fish or fish meat. They prefer to feed at night-time.
Clown knifefish will adapt to most home aquarium conditions as far as water chemistry goes. They do, however, prefer a slightly acidic pH between 6.2-7.0. Water temperature should be kept quite high, around 84 degrees F.
Incredibly, one of these oddballs was caught by a man in Florida while bass fishing. Wow! That fish is gigantic!
This is exactly why I wish chain pet stores wouldn't carry species of this sort, especially when the sales-team isn't educated on their care and specifications. If we don't know, we can't inform you. I'm guilty of this myself, having sold a very young (4") clown knifefish earlier this week when they first arrived without realizing how big they'll eventually become. The customer is in for quite a surprise if his fish survives into adulthood.
But because pet stores do continue to sell oddities that have no business in the average fishkeepers' tanks (and usually don't inform their employees), consumers needs to do their part by researching all species prior to purchase. Lest you wind up with a 3' predator with no place to put it!
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