DSM Fish Gal

The "Too Clean" Aquarium Syndrome

Hi folks!

I'm finally back after another lengthy hiatus.  Between classes, finding a new evening job to replace the pet store gig, and building my DSM Pets clientèle, free time has been in short supply.  Wooh.  Thank goodness that term is over so that I can look forward to starting the next one on Tuesday.   Oh boy!

So, anyway, the topic of the night is on aquarium maintenance, specifically how "cleaning overkill" can (and often does) wreak havoc on the tanks of many inexperienced freshwater hobbyists. 

What do I mean by "cleaning overkill"?  This refers to a range of actions, from scraping all algae from all interior surfaces to replacing filter cartridges on a weekly basis.  Getting your aquarium "too clean" can lead to a host of issues, namely a shortage in the beneficial bacteria that break down the ammonia and nitrite, which then drives these levels up, often resulting in fish deaths.  While working at the pet store, this was a common issue for many of the new aquarium-keepers I spoke with and you might be amazed how difficult it was to get through to some of them.  Other salespeople told them to do this or that, or they mistakenly believed the instructions on various product packaging were to be followed to a tee. 

It's easy to fall for the gimmicks and claims when you rely on the advice of salespeople, but we should keep in mind that it's their job to sell us stuff, plenty of which we probably don't even need.   Double goes for the manufacturers of aquarium supplies.  Many of those manufacturers encourage too frequent and thorough aquarium cleaning in an effort to sell more of their products (e.g. - pre-assembled filter cartridges).

For newbie fishkeepers, it's frustrating to learn that by following the directions posted, your tank isn't as healthy as it otherwise could be.  For these same people it can be difficult to come to terms with the idea that aquariums aren't supposed to be THAT clean.  Aquariums are essentially enclosed miniature ecosystems supported by an assortment of microscopic critters that break down waste products, creating a hospitable environment where fish can thrive.   The places fish come from aren't sparkling clean so why should their tanks be?  New fishkeepers would sometimes say they wanted to provide an optimal living space for their fishies, reasoning that fish would appreciate the same sanitary conditions most Americans can't get enough of (anti-bacterial soap, anyone?).  The problem is that an ultra-clean environment IS NOT optimal for fish (and I'd argue it isn't for people either, but that's another topic).

So, what can we do to improve the health of our aquariums?  Here are a few suggestions (with accompanying links for more information and ideas):

1. Do NOT replace filter cartridges, sponges, or pads very often.  By that I mean one should last for at least a month or longer.  Throw it out only when it's tattered and falling apart or so clogged that it seriously inhibits the flow of water through the filter.  If it becomes clogged with debris you can first try rinsing the cartridge in dechlorinated water (NOT tap water as the chlorine will kill off beneficial bacteria) and then stick it right back into place.  When the package says replace it every 2 weeks, know the manufacturer is buffaloing you into spending more money.  It isn't necessary and in fact does more harm than good to replace your filter cartridges or sponges too frequently.  If more filtration power is desired, add a second filter.  Here are some excellent filter maintenance and cleaning tips.


2. Allowing some (or even a lot) of algae growth is beneficial for your aquatic environment.  Besides  fish enjoying the freely-available snack, algae helps maintain proper water parameters by absorbing some of the excess nutrients and waste products (ammonium and nitrate mainly).  In my tanks, I scrape algae on the front and side walls and leave it to grow uninhibited on the ornaments, rocks, branches, and back glass panel.


3. Use unnecessary chemicals sparingly.  The chemicals necessary for your tank are: water conditioner/dechlorinator.  That's it.  And non-iodized salt.  You don't actually need much else. Water clarifiers rarely do any noticeable good.  Algae inhibitors and pH solutions tend to do more harm than good.  Keep in mind that every time a chemical is added, it increases the total amount of chemicals present, expressed in parts per million (ppm).  That's what the fish are living in and "breathing" everyday.


4. Never, ever use soap to clean out an empty tank or to clean ornaments.  No matter how well you rinse it, some residue is usually left behind.  If serious cleaning is needed, soak the items in chlorine bleach water, followed by an overnight soak in dechlorinated water before being left to dry.


5. Ornaments, fake plants, and rocks provide surface area for beneficial bacteria to colonize.  Bleach will kill these colonies, so it's best not to clean these items.  If you must, it's best kept to rare occasions.  The tank may look all neat and pretty with the ornaments scrubbed up, but it does nothing for the health of the tank.  Removing beneficial bacteria means there are less available to break down the toxic waste products, which can result in fish death.  If a couple of ornaments are kept cleaned off, I'd recommend cutting up pieces of filter foam or sponges and placing them in the filters to allow beneficial bacteria a new site to inhabit.  Just rinse it occasionally in dechlorinated water and replace when tattered.
   


6. The aesthetics new fishkeepers tend to prefer are man-made and look unnatural.  It's probably due to how aquarium supplies are marketed, but it's great to expand past that preference and learn to appreciate the way an established miniature ecosystem actually looks.  It may look overgrown and bushy, but fish dig it that way. 

On top of creating a more fish-friendly environment, these tips help keep the setup more affordable and truly low-maintenance.  I'm all about that! 

How to harden or soften water

Perhaps you have soft water due to a water softening system in your home or your water is supplied by a well instead of the city utility.  This could pose a problem if you're interested in keeping fish (and snails) that require harder water, though if you're new to fishkeeping it's best to select fish that can tolerate your existing water parameters versus trying to tinker with the water chemistry.  But if you have your heart set on a cichlid tank and soft water stands in your way, you do have some options.

First off, let's look at what exactly constitutes hard water.  The term "hard water" usually refers to the general hardness (gH), which is the amount of dissolved calcium carbonate (CaCO₃) in the water supply (from limestone most likely).  Carbonate hardness (kH) refers to the buffering capacity that keeps the pH from fluctuating.  The larger the KH, the more resistant to pH changes your water will be.

Water hardness follows the following guidelines. The unit dH means "degree hardness'', while ppm means "parts per million," which is roughly equivalent to mg/L in water.  1 unit dH equals 17.8 ppm CaCO₃.   Most test kits give the hardness in units of CaCO₃; this means the hardness is equivalent to that much CaCO₃ in water but does not necessarily mean it actually came from CaCO₃.

General Hardness Scale

0 -  4 dH,    0 -   70 ppm : very soft
4 -  8 dH,   70 -  140 ppm : soft
8 - 12 dH,  140 -  210 ppm : medium hard
12 - 18 dH,  210 -  320 ppm : fairly hard
18 - 30 dH,  320 -  530 ppm : hard
Higher : liquid rock (Lake Malawi and Los Angeles, CA)

**Note:  The following measurements are approximate; use a test kit to verify you've achieved the intended results.  Note that if your water is extremely soft to begin with (1 degree KH or less), you may get a drastic change in pH as the buffer is added.

To raise both GH and KH simultaneously, add calcium carbonate (CaCO₃). 1/2 teaspoon per 100 liters of water will increase both the KH and GH by about 1-2 dH. You can add some sea shells, coral, limestone, marble chips, etc. to your filter to accomplish this.  You would use this method to increase your water's overall hardness.

To raise the KH without raising the GH, add sodium bicarbonate (NaHCO₃), a.k.a. - common baking soda.  1/2 teaspoon per 100 Liters raises the KH by about 1 dH.  You would use this method to increase the buffering capacity in your tank to stabilize the pH without necessarily hardening the water.

How to soften your water

An effective way to soften water via peat is to aerate water for 1-2 weeks in a bucket containing peat moss.  For this method, you would get a plastic bucket of the appropriate size. Then, get a large quantity of peat (a gallon or more), boil it (so that it sinks), stuff it in a pillow case, and place it in the water bucket. Use an air pump to aerate it. In 1-2 weeks, the water will be softer and more acidic. Use this aged water when making partial water changes on your tank.

Peat can be bought at pet shops, but it may be expensive. It is much more cost-effective to buy it in bulk at a local gardening shop. Read labels carefully! You don't want to use peat containing fertilizers or other additives.

Although some folks place peat directly in the filters of their tanks, this technique has a number of drawbacks. First, peat clogs easily. Second, peat can be messy and may cloud the water in your tank. Third, the exact quantity of peat needed to effectively soften your water is difficult to estimate. Using the wrong amount results in the wrong water chemistry.  Finally, when doing water changes, your tank's water chemistry changes as new water is added, throwing off the desired properties. Over the next few days, the chemistry changes as the peat takes effect. Using aged water helps ensure that the chemistry of your tank doesn't fluctuate while doing water changes.

Hard water can also be softened by diluting it with distilled water or R/O water.  R/O (reverse-osmosis) water is purified water made by an R/O unit. Unfortunately, R/O units are too expensive ($100-$500) for most fishkeepers.  R/O water can also be purchased at some fish stores, but for most folks the expense and hassle isn't worth it. The same applies to distilled water purchased at grocery stores.

Information for this blog post was borrowed from Beginner FAQ: Practical Water Chemistry.